It’s not hard to use camouflage makeup like a pro.
Camouflage makeup is much like high street make-up….only better!
It gives you up to ten times more pigmentation than anything cosmetic, and its ingredients make it longer lasting and even waterproof if applied properly. It is technically a ‘paramedical’ product, and therefore tested to a much higher standard than cosmetic makeup, which means that you needn’t fear about suffering allergic reactions or break-outs from using it. It also comes in a huge variety of different shades, so you can find the exact perfect colour match for your skin rather than trying to fit into one of 6 or maybe 10 shades that cosmetic ranges create.
Of course, camouflage makeup is mainly used to cover up things ‘normal’ make-up can’t cope with, things such as vitiligo patches, birthmarks, strong scars, strong hyperpigmentation etc, but what not many people realise is that it can also be beautifully used in the same way as more traditional makeup, as under-eye concealer, to conceal blemishes, and even as foundation. From my time on film and tv sets I know that the Dermacolor palette, for example, is a firm staple for many top make-up artists in the industry for the reasons listed above. It’s also fabulous on brides who need something to last all day long.
Here are some top tips on achieving a great natural looking finish whether you are wanting to conceal very severe pigmentation or wanting to use it as a full-coverage concealer or foundation:
1. Less is more!
Some of the camouflage makeup products are quite heavy. They use ingredients such as bees wax to ensure good adherence so it is extremely important to work with very small amounts. You will be surprised how effective the pigmentation is and how little product you actually need.
Use camouflage makeup like a pro – top tip: If you are using a dense and solid formulation, make sure you warm the product up on the back of your hand first. It needs to feel smooth and creamy, then you will get a wonderfully smooth result that glides onto your skin easily.
2. Work in layers and colour correct
If you have worked with small amounts and you find that whatever you want to conceal is sill showing, add another layer. The product builds up very easily, but that way you won’t end up looking caked. Another option is to start by colour correcting your pigmentation in a first layer, and then adding a second layer to match your skin tone.
Use camouflage makeup like a pro – top tip: the darker the pigmentation and your skin, the more orange your colour corrector needs to be.
3. Use the correct primer
Primers can make the world of difference. Just as you would prime a wall prior to painting it, priming your skin can also make your camouflage makeup look more polished. If you are concealing scars, the problem you have is that scarred skin is not porous in the same way as the rest of your skin. That area will simply look different to the rest, and the product is more likely to slide off. Using a primer can prevent this. If on the other hand you are using camouflage makeup as your foundation, you may want to use a little bit of a brightening or illuminating primer first as they do have a matter finish.
Use camouflage makeup like a pro – top tip: use Kryolan Perfect Matt on scars, and Niod’s Photofluid under foundation.
4. Don’t forget the magic of Make-Up Blend
One of my favourite products is the genius little Make-Up Blend. It is a mixing medium that can be mixed (sparingly!) into any cream or solid product to make it more liquid. For anyone wanting to use camouflage makeup as foundation this is perfect – mix in a couple of drops and the result is a more lightweight and sheer finish that keeps the same shade and pigmentation. Perfect.
Use camouflage makeup like a pro – top tip: use your camouflage makeup product undiluted over the area you are concerned about, and diluted with a couple of drops of make-up blend to ensure that your concealer and foundation match each other perfectly.
5. Powder is your friend
There are exceptions but as a general rule skin camouflage makeup is not waterproof or smudge-proof until it has been set with powder. However, using the skin camouflage powder does it make it both of those things. The key is to use it generously, and to be patient. Most people are really afraid of the powder and just swish a little over the top with a large brush. For best results I would recommend using a powder puff, not a brush, and really pressing the powder into the skin. To the extent that it looks really powdery and over the top. Then leave it to settle for a few minutes. It will start being absorbed by the skin’s oils and will start being really effective. You can then vigorously brush off any excess with a powder brush knowing that it won’t come off.
Use camouflage makeup like a pro – top tip: use a damp sponge to blot off any excess powder. Since the camouflage makeup is now waterproof, you won’t mess with the result, you will only lift off any powder still sitting on the skin.
6. Skin camouflage and cosmetic make-up go hand in hand
If you want to use skin camouflage on your face and are worried about the rest of your make-up routine, fear not. The only thing you need to worry about is not to use cream products over your powdered skin camouflage as this will not sit well. As long as you are using powder blushers and bronzers or eyeshadows over your skin camouflage there should be no problem at all.
Use camouflage makeup like a pro – top tip: Skin camouflage cremes can make really great long-lasting eyeshadows.